Banri Devi Temple Almora: Hidden Trek and Spiritual Escape

I still remember the moment I decided to go. I was sitting at a small tea stall near the main market of Almora, a small glass of tea in my hand that tasted nothing like the tea you get in the cities, when an old shopkeeper mentioned a temple that ‘most outsiders don not bother to visit’. He said it almost as a warning, It felt like a call to me, It was the Banri Devi Temple. A week later, I stood beside a forest path, a water bottle in one hand and a hundred questions in my mind, wondering what I had signed up for.

This article is everything I wish someone had told me before that trip. Not the polished, glossy version you read on typical travel sites, but the real me—what I saw, what I felt, what surprised me, and what I would actually tell a friend before I left. If you are planning to visit Banri Devi Temple, or want to know about one of the most overlooked spiritual places in Almora, I think you will find everything you need here.

Where exactly is Banri Devi Temple located?

The Banri Devi Temple is located on the Almora-Lamgarha road, about 26 kilometers from Almora town, near a small village called Jalna, at an altitude of about 1,900 meters above sea level. Here’s the part that changes everything: Of those 26 kilometers, the last 10 kilometers or so can’t be covered by vehicle. You have to walk. There are no shortcuts, no jeep tracks that magically appear, no cheat codes for tired legs. You park your car or taxi where the motorable road ends, and from there, it’s just you, the road, and the forest.

This alone is why so few people know about this place. Almora already has famous temples like Kasar Devi and Chitai Golu Devta, which attract tourists because you can drive right up to the gate, take a few photos, and leave in an hour. Banri Devi doesn’t offer that kind of convenience, and frankly, that inconvenience is its biggest attraction.

My visit to Almora before the trek

Before reaching the trek’s starting point, I spent two nights in the town of Almora, and I feel it’s important to mention this because it sums up the entire trip. Almora itself is a quiet hill town with narrow lanes, old wooden houses, and a market selling everything from local woolen shawls to the famous Almora Bal Mithai, a dark, fudge-like sweet topped with sugar balls, which I bought three times because I kept eating it before reaching my room.

The city has a slow rhythm. Mornings begin with mist on the rooftops, and by the time the sun lifts it, the Himalayan peaks are visible in the distance on a clear day. I mention this because if you’re coming from a larger city, give yourself at least a day in Almora before attempting the Banri Devi trek. This helps your body adjust to the altitude, and frankly, running straight into a ten kilometer climb without any acclimatization is not something I would recommend to anyone.

The Trek: What It’s Actually Like, Step by Step

I’ll be honest, as most articles wouldn’t be. This trek is no walk in the park. It’s often described as difficult by locals, and having done it myself, I completely agree.

• The beginning part: The trail begins where the road ends near Jalna village. The first kilometer or so is deceptive, passing through open fields and a few small houses where you can still see smoke billowing from kitchen chimneys in the early morning. The villagers, busy with their chores, barely glance at you, making you feel less like a tourist and more like a quiet visitor passing through their world.
• Forest Climb: After that first part, the trail enters a dense oak and pine forest and begins a steady climb. This is where things get real. The path is paved with loose stones, patches of mud if it’s rained recently, and a slope that doesn’t ease for long stretches. There were moments when I was literally gasping for breath, stopping every few minutes to try to keep my lungs in sync with my legs. By this point, my phone had almost no signal, which felt strange at first and eventually became strangely quiet.
• Midpoint: About halfway up, the forest opens up a bit, and you get glimpses of the valley below through the gaps between the trees. This is where I stopped complaining about my tired legs. The peace here is different from the quiet of the city. It’s not empty, it’s filled with small sounds—birds chirping, leaves rustling, the occasional barking of a dog from a village below.
• The final stretch: The last section before the temple is the steepest. By this point, your legs are tired, your water bottle is half empty, and you’re starting to question your life decisions a little. But then the trees thin out, and you get your first glimpse of the temple’s structure. That moment made every uphill step worthwhile.

Practical Trekking Tips I Learned the Hard Way

• Water is scarce along the route: There are no shops, restaurants, or snacks or drinks along the way. Each person should carry at least 2 to 3 liters of water. I carried 1.5 liters, and I really regretted it by the time I reached the top.
• Footwear matters more than you might think: The trail is paved with loose rocks and uneven, sometimes muddy sections. Regular sneakers can do if you’re careful, but proper trekking shoes with good grip make a big difference, especially on the descent.
• Start early in the morning, preferably before 8am: The trek takes three to five hours, depending on your fitness and how many breaks you take. Starting late means risking the descent in dim light, and this isn’t a route you want to take after dark.
• A local guide is really helpful: In Jalna village, you’ll usually find someone willing to guide you for a small, reasonable fee. I initially didn’t hire a guide, but I ended up asking the villagers twice for directions. This route isn’t a maze, but a guide saves time, effort, and unnecessary worry.
• There’s no mobile network on most of the route: Let someone know your plan before you start, bring a printed or downloaded offline map if possible, and don’t expect anyone to post updates until you’re back near the road.
• Maintain your pace: This isn’t a race. I’ve seen some college students run almost sprints for the first part, only to get completely exhausted by the middle. On this particular route, slow and steady progress is the key.

The temple itself

Reaching the temple after such a steep climb feels like a small victory. And it doesn’t disappoint. The structure is octagonal, a rarity, and quite unlike the typical temples seen around Uttarakhand. Local records date it back to the 9th century.

Inside is an ancient idol of Lord Vishnu, reclining on the coiled body of Sheshnag, with four arms. It’s worn over time, some parts broken. But that makes it even more beautiful.

There’s something wonderful about standing in front of something so old, in such a difficult place. No crowds. No loudspeakers. Just peace.

There are no shops, no vendors, nothing commercial around. Just stones, trees, and tranquility. If you like quiet, untouched places, this place will stay with you.

Nearby is another small temple called Kutumbhari Devi Temple, dating back to the same era. Most people visit both together because they are close together, and this makes the whole hike even more enjoyable.

The Story Behind Banri Devi

Like most ancient temples hidden in the Kumaon hills, Banri Devi is associated with stories passed down through generations, more than anything written in books. Villagers around Jalna consider the goddess a protector of the surrounding forest and surrounding settlements. Some believe that the temple was once a resting place for sages traveling through these hills, and that its secluded, hard-to-reach location was deliberately chosen away from the bustling settlements to allow for meditation and worship without interruption from everyday village life.

I can’t verify these stories as historical truth, and frankly, that’s not why I’m sharing them. I’m sharing them because, sitting there, in that tranquility, surrounded by centuries-old carved stones, it’s easy to understand why such stories exist. Places like these call for stories in themselves. There’s something about the combination of age and loneliness that compels people to explain it away with a story bigger than themselves.

Best Time to Visit

Based on what locals told me and what I’ve experienced myself, the best months for this trek are between March and June and then September and November. During these months, the weather is mild, the path is dry and easy to walk, and visibility is clear enough to enjoy the jungle views along the way.

If possible, avoid the monsoon months of July and August altogether. The path becomes slippery and truly treacherous in some places, and leeches are a real, serious problem in this area during heavy rains. Winter, from December to February, brings its own challenges as the higher elevations can be cold, and sometimes even receive light snowfall, making footing difficult and the climb quite challenging.

How to Reach Almora

Before you can even consider trekking, you need to get to Almora.

• By Air: The nearest airport is Pantnagar, about 127 kilometers from Almora town. From there, you’ll need to take a taxi or bus to reach Almora, which takes about four to five hours depending on road conditions.
• By Train: Kathgodam is the nearest railway station, about 90 kilometers from Almora, and is well connected by direct trains to Delhi, Lucknow, and Dehradun. From Kathgodam, shared taxis and buses run regularly to Almora.
• By Road: Almora has good road connectivity. You can arrive from Delhi (about 380 kilometers), Nainital (about 65 kilometers), or drive directly from Kathgodam. If you’re traveling without a personal vehicle, government buses and shared taxis are also available.

Once you reach Almora, you’ll need private transportation, either your own vehicle or a hired taxi, to reach the Almora-Lamgarha Road where the trek actually begins. Ask locals for the correct drop point near Jalna village, as there aren’t many signboards there and locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction.

Where to Stay and What to Eat

The city of Almora has a good selection of budget guesthouses and mid-range hotels, most of which are located around Mall Road and the main market area. I stayed in a small family guesthouse, which offered very affordable rent and included home-cooked meals, which truly proved to be one of the best parts of the trip. If you prefer more comfort, there are some boutique hotels near Kasar Devi that cater to travelers seeking a quiet, slightly upscale stay with mountain views.

In terms of food, be sure to try Bal Mithai, a local specialty sweet from Almora, and Singori, another regional sweet wrapped in malu leaves, giving it a distinct flavor. For dining, check out small local eateries called dhabas that serve simple Kumaoni thali, often featuring dishes like Bhatt ki Churkani, a black soybean curry that’s a regional favorite. There is no restaurants or places to eat near the Banri Devi Trail, so make sure you eat well before heading to Almora.

Nearby Places to Visit on Your Trip

Since you’re already exploring so much of the Almora area, it’s worth exploring some of the surrounding areas as well.

• Kasar Devi Temple is easily accessible by road and is known for its Himalayan views and its history with spiritual seekers, including Swami Vivekananda, who is said to have meditated here.
• Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary offers dense oak forests and spectacular views of the Himalayan range, making it a tranquil destination if you enjoy nature walks.
• The Chitai Golu Devta Temple. famous for its thousands of bells hung by devotees, offers a completely different experience than the serene tranquility of Banri Devi, and is worth visiting for its difference alone.
• Bright End Corner, a viewpoint near Almora town, is a good place to watch the sunset after a tiring day of trekking.

What to Pack

Since this isn’t a casual sightseeing trip, it’s always a good idea to pack a little smart:

• Comfortable trekking shoes, worn in, not brand new
• At least 2 to 3 liters of water per person
• Light snacks for the climb, such as dried fruit, biscuits, or energy bars
• A cap or hat to protect yourself from the sun in exposed areas
• A basic first aid kit, especially if you’re prone to blisters or muscle cramps
• A light jacket, even in summer, as mountain weather can change quickly
• Cash, as there are no ATMs or digital payment options anywhere near the temples or the trail

Is it worth the effort?

I’m often asked this question by people planning their trip, and my honest answer is yes, but only if you go with the right expectations. This isn’t a place to visit quickly and leisurely. It requires effort, some sweat, tired feet, and a lot of patience. But what you get in return is a true sense of discovery. You’re not standing in line behind fifty other tourists taking the same photo. You deserve the view, the moment of standing in front of that old, ancient statue, the peaceful feeling that comes from sitting near the temple and simply breathing.

If you’re the kind of traveler who prefers offbeat places to the crowded tourist circuit, who doesn’t mind spending a physically demanding day at a truly rewarding destination, the Banri Devi Temple will offer you exactly that. It’s not for everyone, and frankly, that’s what makes it special.

Conclusion

Looking back, that conversation with the tea stall owner in Almora turned out to be one of the most memorable days of my entire Kumaon trip. Not because the temple was huge or the trek easy, but because of everything in between—the forest, the silence, the slight aching in my feet at the end of the day, and the calming feeling of having discovered something most people pass by without realizing it.

If you’re planning a trip to Almora and you’re tired of the usual tourist spots, give the Banri Devi Temple a real chance. Pack your water, wear your best shoes, start early, and go slow. The mountains don’t reward speed. They reward patience, and they certainly reward curiosity.

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